What kinds of perfumes are there: types and classification of perfumes by durability and aroma. What is the difference between eau de parfum and eau de toilette and perfume? How did the name “eau de toilette” come about?
Favorite eau de toilette is an important element of a modern girl’s wardrobe. On the dressing tables of Parisian women there are luxurious bottles containing enchanting scents. Many of them strive to put together an individual collection of perfumes - after all, expensive eau de toilette from premium brands can instantly improve their mood and give them self-confidence.
Choosing the perfect eau de toilette is a pleasant experience, which, however, can sometimes be confusing. Indeed, it is very important to choose “your” scent, which will not get boring after a short time. Standing in a perfume store, it can be difficult to decide which of these beautiful bottles will be the best decoration for a woman’s image. Our article will help you understand the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum and which scent is better - chypre or floral.
What is the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum?
In order to figure out what is more durable - eau de toilette or eau de parfum, you need to know the classification of perfumed products. This information will certainly come in handy when choosing the best perfume for yourself or as a gift.
All perfume products consist of water, alcohol and aromatic substances. Depending on the ratio of these ingredients, perfumes are divided into the following groups:
perfume - Parfum or Perfume- This is the most concentrated type of perfume. The content of aromatic essences and essential oils in them reaches from 20 to 40% in 90% alcohol. Perfume has a pronounced, rich and persistent aroma with bright notes of trail that lasts for several days, so they are usually used in the cold season, mainly in the context of evening events. In hot weather, the aroma of perfume may seem too heavy;
eau de parfum - Eau De Parfum (EDP)- contains 15-20% aromatic substances in 90% alcohol. This product is also called day or toilet perfume. This concentration allows you to focus on pronounced heart notes. Eau de parfum is suitable for daytime use with careful, light application;
eau de toilette - Eau De Toilette (EDT) is a lightweight spray that was originally used as an affordable alternative to perfume. Today this product is considered the most popular type of perfume products. Eau de toilette contains 8-15% essential oils and other aromatic elements dissolved in 80% alcohol. This product has bright top and middle notes, but the trail nuances are only slightly felt. Good eau de toilette is universal, it can be used in winter and summer, day and evening, it is suitable even for hot climates or outdoor activities;
cologne - Eau De Cologne (EDC)- an even less concentrated type of perfume. This product contains up to 5% odorous substances dissolved in 70-80% alcohol. Typically, colognes are designed for men and have corresponding scents with fresh, marine or woody notes;
perfumed products for body care, which includes a wide variety of body care cosmetics that quote the basic aroma of eau de toilette - shower gel, moisturizing milk, nourishing cream and others. Such products are usually sold in a gift set with a bottle of perfume. Their purpose is to support the aromas of eau de toilette for women and increase the durability of their favorite scents. High-quality skincare cosmetics do not contain alcohol at all, so as not to dry out the skin, and the concentration of fragrant components in it is about 1%.
Types of eau de toilette
Sometimes it can be very difficult to understand which eau de toilette to choose for a young girl, and which scent is best for an elegant adult lady. To solve this issue, you need to have an idea of the existing classifications of fragrances. This knowledge will give you the opportunity to choose your ideal scent for the rest of your life or, conversely, conduct successful experiments by choosing a new perfume or eau de toilette within your favorite family.
It is perhaps impossible to create a unified system of odors. Today, perfume companies sometimes invent synthetic aroma ingredients, and scent connoisseurs strive to fit them into existing schemes or reimagine them. In this article we will tell you about the system proposed in 1990 by the French Perfumery Committee (Comite Francais De Parfum), the entire variety of scents used in perfumery is divided into seven large groups or families:
citrus- the basis of these aromas are essential oils obtained from the zest of citrus fruits - orange, bergamot, tangerine and many others. Light and energetic, citrus eau de toilette for girls will perfectly complement your morning look and give your image freshness and vigor;
floral- they use essences extracted from fresh flowers: roses, jasmine, lilac. Such a delicate and romantic scent will create a seductive image, ideal for a first date;
woody- warm rich notes created on the basis of essential oils of various tree species: cedar, sandalwood, vetiver. These nuances are often used to create unisex perfumes; they will also organically complement a discreet office wardrobe;
eastern- spicy and tart scents created using animal notes - musk and amber, or classic spices - cinnamon, cloves, coriander. Such scents are more suitable for luxurious appearances in evening dresses;
leather- a relatively small family consisting of dryish tart aromas. These notes are used to create men's and women's perfumes. Leather scents go perfectly with laconic clothes in a men's style - a business suit or, on the contrary, a rocker biker jacket;
chypre- this group got its name in honor of the Mediterranean island of Cyprus and the perfume of the same name, created in 1917 by perfumer Francois Coty. In such perfumes you can catch notes of incense, oak moss and patchouli. Relaxed chypre perfume will perfectly complement a casual look;
wine glasses- complex aromas with notes of wood moss, lavender and coumarin. These warm scents are ideal for the cold season, as well as for everyday life and work.
Of course, this classification is very conditional. Most existing perfumes can be classified into several families. For example, a good eau de toilette from Lancome Tresor is considered an oriental floral scent, and its popular flanker Tresor Midnight Rose is a fruity floral scent.
Which is better - eau de toilette or perfumed
So, whose scent is more lasting - eau de toilette or perfumed water? On the one hand, it can be argued that eau de toilette is less persistent due to the lower concentration of aromatic essences. However, it happens that the smell of regular cologne lasts much longer than the aroma of perfume. It can be argued that it is not easy to clearly determine the durability of eau de toilette.
Firstly, longevity depends not only on the concentration of aromatic substances, but also on the ingredients used. It has been proven that the most persistent notes are oriental and woody, but light fruity nuances fade much faster.
Secondly, even the best eau de toilette for women reveals differently on different people. This concerns not only the expressiveness of the sound of individual notes, but also the durability in general. Sometimes it is impossible to predict how a perfume will behave on the skin - so before deciding on a purchase, you should listen to the aroma of the product on yourself.
But even if you no longer smell the perfume on yourself, you should not be upset - perhaps your nose is simply accustomed to the aroma. Ask friends or family to evaluate the smell a few hours after application - it is quite possible that other people can still smell it.
Composition of eau de toilette
It's no secret that expensive perfume or eau de toilette smell differently throughout the day. Subtle nuances, when mixed, create a unique composition with a delicate aftertaste. The best eau de toilette for women gives an excellent scent that gradually changes and appears in a new way after some time after application.
The idea of a fragrance pyramid first appeared in the 19th century, when, with the development of perfumery, mono-aromas were replaced by more complex compositions of several ingredients. Master perfumers soon developed a theory about the scent pyramid, which helps them create the perfect perfume and predict how the scent will change over time after application. This concept is based on information about the evaporation rate of various essential oils and essences.
Traditionally, the aroma pyramid includes three steps:
top notes (“head”). Top notes are the opening chord, the first thing a person will feel when opening a bottle of eau de toilette. They open instantly and set the tone for the aroma during the first 10-20 minutes. As a rule, they make up about 20% of the total fragrant substance. Citrus or fruit scents are used as top notes - grapefruit, raspberry, honeysuckle;
middle notes (“heart”). The middle notes reveal themselves in all their glory after the top chords evaporate. The heart notes are also called the “core” of a fragrance because they represent its main character. These smells have a fairly long duration - up to 5 hours. As a rule, the heart range is very soft, it includes delicate flowers or tart oriental spices: rose, jasmine, coriander;
base notes (“base notes”). Middle notes gently help the scent trail, which makes up 40-50% of the entire aromatic composition, to sound. Mixing with the heart notes, the basic nuances reveal the fullness of the scent and remain on the skin for up to 8-10 hours, responsible for the “aftertaste” of the perfume. As a rule, the base notes are heavy, rich scents - amber, musk, vanilla, leather, and various resins.
Modern perfumers sometimes create innovative scents, experimenting with the traditional pyramid and making smells sound in an unusual sequence. However, most eau de toilette and perfume waters still have a classic structure. For example, La vie est belle eau de toilette for girls, created in 2012 by perfumers Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, boasts the following pyramid:
top notes are fruity: black currant and pear;
heart notes are iris, jasmine and orange blossom;
base - patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla and almond praline.
Such a complex, expressive composition sounds great on tender and dreamy young girls who love flirty dresses and sweet desserts.
How to use eau de toilette
Having chosen your ideal scent, you should figure out how to apply eau de toilette correctly, because inept use of perfumed products can not only ruin your thoughtful image, but also harm the aromatic product itself. To prevent this from happening, you must follow a few simple rules:
do not forget about hair and body hygiene - eau de toilette should be applied after a shower to clean and dry skin;
if you want to perfume your clothes, it is better to apply perfume from the wrong side to avoid stains;
do not spray eau de toilette on jewelry - the alcohol solution can harm your favorite earrings or chain;
Do not apply too much perfume - two or three sprays are enough.
Both women and men use eau de toilette. What is this light perfume? From the point of view of chemical composition, this is the concentration of fragrant substances in alcohol in the amount of 7 to 10%. The proportion of main notes in this perfume is reduced, and the top notes, on the contrary, are enhanced. Eau de toilette is exactly what it says on the bottles, lighter than perfume, so they are used several times a day. Eau de toilette is ideal for work and is convenient to use in the hot summer.
How did the name “eau de toilette” come about?
Everyone is accustomed to calling eau de toilette “eau de toilette” in the same way as, for example, the sea as “sea” or the sun as “sun”. But this name was invented and first used by a famous person who had nothing to do with the production of perfumes and eau de toilettes - Emperor Bonaparte Napoleon.
The emperor paid great attention to his image. There were rumors that he transferred up to 12 liters of cologne per day to himself. On the island of St. Helena, where he was exiled, there were no magnificent receptions and no beautiful ladies. But he still had a love for perfumes. The emperor had a decent supply of perfume with him, but one day they ran out. Then Bonaparte created his own aromatic remedy. It consisted mainly of alcohol, to which a little fresh bergamot was added. The French commander gave this composition the name “Eau de toilette”, which translated - Eau de Toilette.
Stories about eau de toilette
Aromatic substances have been used by people long before the time of Napoleon. Compositions were made from various components, but the love for fragrances has remained unchanged throughout the centuries.
Ancient Egypt
Substances that produce aromas have been known to people since ancient Egypt. Before traveling, Queen Cleopatra always issued orders to moisten the sails of ships with a fragrant composition. She wanted her favorite trail of scent to travel with her. It was with the help of eau de toilette that the Egyptian managed to gain power over the military leader Mark Antony.
Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome
In the cities of Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, it was customary to soak the curtains in the amphitheater with aromatic water. On holidays, such water flowed from fountains, and eau de toilette was sprayed onto the wings of birds that flew over those present. The fragrance was very strong. Some could not withstand such concentration. There have been cases when people suffered from suffocation due to such a rich aroma.
Hungary
Queen Elizabeth composed her perfume. Its main component was rosemary. Such water unexpectedly improved the health of the Hungarian ruler, after which the Polish ruler offered her his hand and heart.
France
King Louis the 14th of France always sprinkled his clothes with a fragrant suspension, which he called “heavenly.” When preparing something like fragrant water, they threw in orange blossom, aloe, the ingredients were musk, rare at that time, oriental spices, and an almost obligatory ingredient - rose water.
Queen Wilhelmina of the Netherlands loved fragrances so much that she poured a whole bottle of eau de toilette into her bath when bathing. Marie Antoinette also took fragrant water treatments.
Modern history
Guerlain was able to change the concept of aromatic liquid. Launching Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat in 1920 , eau de toilette was no longer perceived as perfume that had been diluted with water. Everyone liked the modest aroma with notes of citrus.
During the Great Depression, which lasted three years, no one showed interest in perfumery. But immediately after its completion, interest in fragrances grew sharply. Then two types of eau de toilette appeared, released by the Floris company: “Red Rose”, “English Violet”.
After the end of World War II, the following became widespread: “Muse” by Coty, “Vent Vert” by Pierre Balmain, “L’AirduTemps” by NinaRicci. The latter can still be found on sale today. The Hermes fashion house released its first fragrance “Eau d’Hermes”. And Dior introduced its Eau Fraiche eau de toilette in 1953.
Today there are many scents that can only be found as eau de toilette. Most often they are produced for the stronger half.
An interesting fact: if eau de toilette is made as a pair to a perfume that already exists, then not only the saturation of aromatic substances in it changes, but also the composition itself.
Such a practical eau de toilette
At the moment when perfume manufacturers found aromatic compositions too “heavy”, they were replaced by eau de toilette. The transition of manufacturers to its production is justified. Perfume has an intense, heavy smell that is not suitable for use during the day, especially if a woman spends it at work. Therefore, they began to use perfume more often for evening celebrations or simply pleasant moments. They were replaced by eau de toilette - lighter. In everyday life it fits perfectly. This perfume can be used at work. If desired, the aroma can be renewed by applying water to the skin several times.
The most expensive eau de toilette
Statistics show: people most often buy eau de toilette in the price range of 10-80 dollars for 1 bottle with a capacity of 75 ml. Among this perfume you are unlikely to find a branded scent, because all the brands known in the world do not lower the price below 100-150 dollars.
To attract attention to their scents, manufacturers add various extracts of exotic herbs and animal pheromones to their compositions. The cost of water can increase if it is poured into an expensive bottle. Thus, the Clive Christian company asked for 250 thousand dollars for the “Imperial Majesty” fragrance. In history, it became known as the manufacturer of the most expensive eau de toilette. The bottle itself is small in size, decorated with diamonds and gold. The contents of this exquisite package have an aroma that combines Tahitian vanilla, Indian sandalwood, and rare essential oils. In total, the company produced 10 such packages of eau de toilette. Who became the owner of the bottles is a mystery.
The same company released the most expensive men's fragrance, Clive Christian's No.1. The masters decided to keep the bottle of this eau de toilette in a strict form, adding a fancy ring to the neck. The cost of the perfume is only $650. Clive Christian still produces this fragrance today, so anyone can purchase it.
It is impossible not to mention another perfume brand that produces luxury products. Amouage was founded in 1983. Today it is known as the manufacturer of the most expensive men's eau de toilette. The fragrance is called “Amouage Die Pour Homme”. You can hear sensual floral influences in it. The aroma is based on notes of incense, plum flowers, peony. The water is housed in a vintage rose gold and crystal bottle. This eau de toilette can be purchased for $250.
How to wear eau de toilette
- Before applying the aroma of water, determine how tall the man is than you. If his height is much higher than yours, then spray water on the upper parts of the body. This way the smell will quickly reach the partner’s sense of smell.
- It is better to spray eau de toilette on yourself immediately after a shower. Clean, moist skin will absorb the scent much more intensely. Try to spray perfume on your body, avoiding getting it on your clothes, because eau de toilette can ruin the fabric.
- If you apply the scent to damp hair, the pleasant smell will last for a very long time.
- If you need to apply eau de toilette a second time, moisten the area with cream or lotion - the aroma will be absorbed much better.
Where to apply the scent
There are special “correct” places for applying perfume. The chosen one will definitely appreciate your aroma if the eau de toilette gently envelops you.
You should not spray eau de toilette from a bottle behind your ears. This way the contents will end up on your clothes and will be wasted. Spray your fingertips with perfume and lightly apply the scent behind your ears, into your lobes.
The upper part of the chest should be irrigated with eau de toilette carefully so that a light haze of aroma is created around you. It is important not to overdo the scent in this part of the body.
The chin is smothered with a light touch.
Apply a little eau de toilette between the mammary glands to provide an unobtrusive aroma and create the integrity of the composition.
Any aroma will appear brighter in those parts of the body where the temperature rises. The reaction to heat will be most active under the knees. This is the best place to apply perfume.
The scent should be applied to your wrists at the very end - to each one separately. You should not rub eau de toilette between your wrists so that the scent lasts longer.
The amount of eau de toilette you apply will tell you the type of scent. If it is delicate and light, then most often the perfume is not very long-lasting. You will need to apply it more often. Thicker aromas will last longer on the skin, so it is enough to apply this eau de toilette a couple of times a day.
Consider your skin type
When spraying water, be sure to consider your skin type. Dark, oily ones absorb odors much better than light, dry ones. Eau de toilette disappears somewhat faster than perfume, so if you have dark skin or have oily skin, then the best option is to throw your favorite water into your purse so that you can add extra perfume if necessary.
It is important not to apply too much fragrance. Even if your eau de toilette is very expensive, you need to remember that any scent should be applied in moderation. No one likes it if a person smells of perfume.
A favorite scent gives any woman confidence, so it is very important to choose your scent. Eau de Toilette less persistent than perfume, but it can be changed more often, choosing the appropriate option to suit your mood.
Almost any fragrance produced by a well-known manufacturer exists in three versions: perfume, eau de parfum and eau de toilette. Although, I must admit, there are also “independent” options. How are they different from each other? Let's try to figure it out.
What is eau de parfum, perfume and eau de toilette?
What is the difference between perfume and, say, eau de parfum? For many of us, the answer lies on the surface: it differs, well, of course, in price. You can’t buy “decent” popular perfumes for less than 6 thousand rubles. And good eau de parfum is very economical in price. Smells the same and costs less.
I hope you understand that there are no free miracles?
So, let’s figure it out, find the differences, and carry out the necessary educational program.
Perfume
Perfume is a perfume based on alcohol and fragrant substances of natural or synthetic origin (such “perfumes” cannot be considered real, they are fake). Their main difference from other perfume products is the high content of essential oils (15–30% or more) dissolved in almost pure alcohol (96%). Hence the special durability of perfumes. In accordance with perfume requirements, the scent lasts on the skin for up to five hours. And scented clothes smell fragrant for up to 36 hours, maintaining a light flair of aroma almost indefinitely (until the first wash).
The raw materials for fragrant substances are flower petals, leaves, fruits, and roots of essential plants. Substances of natural origin, such as ambergris or musk, are also used to fix the smell. Although their aroma is, frankly speaking, unique, the quality of the perfume depends on their presence in the composition.
Spirits are divided:
- according to the nature of the smell - floral (reproduce the smell of a flower) and fancy;
- according to the intensity of the smell - light and heavy;
- according to the structure of the aroma - how many notes they contain and how they unfold.
Eau de parfum
Eau de parfum is a less intense perfume. The amount of aromatic substances in it does not exceed 10–20%, and the alcohol concentration is 80–90%. However, this is quite enough for your skin and clothes to retain a pleasant smell for three to four hours. Compared to perfume, the smell of eau de parfum is not as intense and intrusive, for which it is often called a daytime perfume.
It is eau de parfum - due to the optimal price-quality ratio - that is particularly popular today. Moreover, in terms of the complexity of the composition and the richness of notes, some of its variants are not inferior to perfumes. It is often available in a spray bottle, which is certainly convenient.
So, compared to perfume, eau de parfum:
- has a lighter aroma;
- leaves a feeling of freshness;
- universal, it can be used at any time of the day.
Eau de Toilette
Eau de Toilette ( eau de toilette) is the same mixture of fragrant aromatic substances and alcohol. However, aromatic substances are contained in much lower concentrations (in quantities not exceeding 10%). There is a legend that Napoleon came up with the name for this odorous product. Finding himself imprisoned on the island of St. Helena, he lost many of his usual things, including his favorite cologne. And, in order to smell nice, he mixed alcohol with bergamot and called his invention eau de toilette. Surprisingly, the name stuck.
The eau de toilette has a fairly simple aroma without a long development of notes or a complex sillage. But it is wonderfully refreshing.
So, eau de toilette:
- unobtrusive, it can be used by women with migraines “to smells”;
- refreshes;
- quickly fades away without having time to get boring.
The main differences between eau de parfum, perfume, eau de toilette
And now, as they say, let’s consolidate the material. Namely, we will describe point by point the differences between perfumes, eau de parfum and eau de toilette.
Compound
All products contain alcohol and aromatics, but in different proportions. Perfume contains 15–30% aromatic substances and uses 96% alcohol. Eau de parfum contains 10–20% aromatic substances and uses 90% alcohol. Eau de toilette contains 4–10% aromatic substances and uses 80–90% alcohol.
Durability
On the skin, perfume retains its scent for up to five hours, eau de parfum - three to four hours, the aroma of eau de toilette disappears after two hours.
Application rules
Perfume is applied in a small amount to the wrist, the dimple behind the ear or into the jugular hollow of the neck. It is believed that in these zones, due to the proximity and special pulsation of blood vessels, they open best and smell especially noble. Perfume and eau de toilette can be sprayed on the neck, hands and clothes. The main thing is not to overdo it with quantity.
Eau de Parfiim is a product close to perfume. In terms of the concentration of essential oils, eau de parfum is between perfume and eau de toilette. The perfume composition contains Twelve - Thirteen% of aromatic raw materials in Ninety% alcohol. The amount of the main scent in the composition is miniaturized, the middle is more pronounced, but there is still a lot of base. Eau de parfum is often called daytime perfume, because during the day it replaces perfume.
Eau de parfum was created specifically for business ladies. Unlike perfume, it does not irritate others and is more durable than eau de toilette. Eau de parfum lasts 4-5 hours, so you can use it twice a day. It is applied in small quantities to skin and clothing, but not to silk, fur or pearls.
Eau de Toilette
Eau de Toilette - 6 -12% concentrate, diluted in Eighty 5% alcohol; eau de toilette (4 - 10% extract in Eighty - Ninety% alcohol) is also in great demand, especially in our country. Many scents are available exclusively in this concentration (h’Eau par Kenzo, Eau Belle, Cool Water Woman, Week-End, Eau d’Eden, Petits et Mamans and many others), and men’s perfumes are virtually all represented by eau de toilette.
Let's compare perfumes and eau de toilette of the same band: eau de toilette has its drawbacks - you have to spend more of it, because the longevity is not so good (on average, eau de toilette lasts less than 2-3 hours, and perfume lasts more than 5-10 hours!), and the smell is the least fascinating.
But there are also advantages: affordable cost, abundance of formats (usually 30, 50, 75, 100 ml), ease of use (in most cases spray); many, on the contrary, like the fact that the smell is not very strong.
For daytime use of eau de toilette it is completely sufficient, but for any festive events it is better to have a more concentrated version of the scent or use eau de toilette with various accompanying products.
Cologne
Eau de Cologne - Three - 5% aromatics in 70-80% alcohol. You need to know that in American perfumery the designation Cologne usually corresponds to the designation of French eau de parfum or eau de toilette.
Eau de Cologne - this designation is now found in most cases on bottles of aromatic liquids for guys and means the same as Eau de Toilette. Only from time to time it is used in perfumes for ladies, then it is the lightest of the smells. In general purpose perfumes, the same expression is applied to a refreshing water with a cold, specifically emphasized citrus effect.
Refreshing water
Sports water - L’Eau Fraiche, Eau de Sport - One - 3% perfume composition and 70-80% alcohol. Typically, this type of perfume had a citrus scent.
In perfumery there are products that are timidly designated, but they exist exclusively in this form, in other words, there is no Parfum or Eau de Parfum corresponding to them. In such cases, Eau forms part of the name, as, for example, in the case of Eau de Rochas or Eau Souvage. All these “waters” usually have a light Eau de Toilette concentration, are fresh and are designed for consumption throughout the day, for example, after sports.
Pros and cons of the spray
Many types of perfumes are united by the fact that they are applied to the skin by hand. But a huge number of them are also available in spray versions: these are Spray, Natural Spray, Atomiseur Vaporisateur.
The spray has enormous advantages - an almost unlimited shelf life, because the liquid inside is completely protected from contact with air.
The word Spray itself means aerosol: the bottle is filled with a substance under pressure and using gas. If you press on the head, perfume will spray out in small droplets. The smell released from the spray manifests itself somewhat differently, especially at first. Due to the spraying of water, the smell is felt immediately and 100%, while in ordinary perfumes it manifests itself evenly, due to the heat of the human body.
Natural spray - written on spray bottles. They do not contain any gas, atomization occurs due to the head itself, which acts as a pump, but the particles are not so small. The shelf life in this case is the same as that of bottles without spray devices, and the scent develops more slowly than that of aerosols filled under pressure.
However, aerosols fell into disrepute when hydrocarbon compounds containing fluorine and chlorine atoms were found to destroy the ozone layer in the atmosphere. Now they are no longer used, but gases that are harmless to the environment are used. This means that products marked Spray can be used without fear.
Apart from the fact that they spray the liquid with special care, they have an almost unlimited shelf life, because there is no air inside the container. Therefore, they are especially suitable for those ladies who use different perfumes at once and, as follows, spend each of them slowly, little by little.
For purely technical reasons, aerosol bottles are usually designed without imagination in comparison with other types of packaging. Spray has approximately the same concentration of odor substances as the corresponding non-aerosol product. However, spirits appear here differently, especially at the first moment. This means that when evaluating aerosol perfumes, you should not wait as long as in other cases.
Atomiseur, Vaporisateur. Unfortunately, the French designations Atomiseur and Vaporisateur are not used as thoughtfully as the English ones. In most cases, Atomiseur is the same as Spray, and Vaporisateur is the same as Natural Spray, but from time to time the opposite happens.
Italian and Spanish companies in most cases use French designations, and English and German companies use South American ones, but the choice of language is not carefully considered, which is why both the South American Parfum Spray and the French Eau de Toilette often appear in the same series.
Useful tips
The variety of perfumes from different brands and manufacturers clearly indicates that choosing a scent is not an easy task, requiring certain knowledge and, more importantly, skill.
The ability to choose “your own scent” makes a person’s life easier - if, of course, we are talking about a person who purposefully devotes his time to this issue Special attention, considering how we smell as important as what we wear.
And if a person regularly purchases the same perfume or cologne, this can only mean that he afraid to experiment with aromas, that is, he does not know how to choose them.
In fact, the world of perfume aromas is so wide and diverse that you can limit yourself to just one perfume when using it. for many years, it's like wearing the same clothes in winter and summer.
We invite you to plunge into the world of perfumes and other perfumes by reading theoretical side question of choice. The information received, if you support the theory with practice, will help you navigate this world well.
Humanity began its research in the field of perfumery back in the middle of the 4th century BC. There may have been earlier attempts, but information about them has not reached us. About the first ones manipulations with aromas became known thanks to the oldest written sources of Ancient Mesopotamia, and then - Ancient Rome, Egypt and Persia.
The ancient Egyptians, for example, paid so much attention to everything related to aromas and smells that already about two and a half thousand years BC they worshiped Grandfather - god of incense. By the way, for the use of incense during the burial process, Dedun was also considered the patron saint of the dead.
The first perfume products
Incense, which included aromatic substances plant and animal origin, also used as potions and religious “flavors,” can be considered the first perfume product.
From the use of camphor, sandalwood and myrrh as the aromatic base of plants, and ambergris, musk and operculum as the animal aromatic base, to the appearance of the first perfumes as aging product and distillate, relatively little time has passed.
The first perfumer in history is a woman
In fact, already in the second millennium BC, what can be called spirits appeared. And the first perfumer, who created this product, became a chemist and part-time palace overseer from Ancient Mesopotamia named Talputi-Belatekallim.
Since then, leading artists have constantly contributed to the development of fragrance culture chemists, alchemists and doctors, including the medieval Persian scientist Avicenna, the Arab scientist Al-Kindi, the personal perfumers of the Indian king Harshavadhana and, much later, the chemists of European royal courts.
Perfume Red Moscow
Osmoteka – the world's archive of fragrances
The apogee of the development of perfumes today can be considered the appearance of the so-called fragrance archive in Versailles (Osmotheques), created on April 26, 1990 on the initiative of French perfumer Jean Kerleo, who devoted almost his entire life to creating fragrances under the famous Jean Patou brand.
Soviet perfumes in Osmotek
Despite the fact that not all fragrances in the world are represented in the Osmotheka collection, this “library” of perfumes can be considered largest on the planet. It also contains well-known Soviet brands, including “Red Moscow” from the “Novaya Zarya” factory, and the once scarce perfume of the Latvian company “Dzintars”.
By the way, at the World Exhibition in Brussels in 1958, the “Red Moscow” perfume was awarded a special prize. The commission highly appreciated the richness of the aroma of this perfume containing more than sixty components. There are many admirers of this scent in our time, although many criticize “Red Moscow” for its excessive clove base and intrusive scent.
What is the base of perfume?
The basis of the aroma of a perfume (extract) is, roughly speaking, those same volatile substances with a strong odor that are the basis of the final aromas any finished perfume products.
They are usually obtained through the distillation process, although it is possible to obtain them under pressure (squeezed out with a press), by sublimation, or using so-called extractants (essentially solvents).
Before moving directly to the issue of choosing a fragrance (that is, applying it correctly to the skin and studying the smell of the perfume), you need to decide what exactly do you want to buy: perfume, eau de parfum, eau de toilette or cologne. Only after studying this important issue will it be possible to move directly to the intricacies of choosing a fragrance.
Composition of perfume
What is perfume
Like any other perfumery product, perfumes have the right to be called such only if they comply with certain proportions components included in the finished product.
This is an extremely important point, given the fact that the water, alcohol and aromatic components are the basis of most perfume products(including cologne, eau de toilette, lotions and much more).
In perfumes, the percentage of aromatic essential oils (that is, perfume composition, extract, aromatic substances or, simply put, aromatic component) ranges from 15 to 30 percent (in rare cases - up to 40). In this case, the fragrant component dissolves exclusively in highly concentrated (up to 96 percent) ethyl alcohol.
In the final product, the volume fraction of ethyl alcohol can range from 55 to 85 percent. From a chemical point of view, it is high concentration of extract to the appropriate proportion of ethyl alcohol and makes the perfume a perfume. Where do these numbers come from, you may ask? And this is the right question!
In this article we rely on the technical requirements for liquid perfume products. (Interstate standard), which are used in Russia, Belarus and some other countries.
Of course, there may be discrepancies in some parameters (especially with products that were manufactured in the USA). However, we need to use these standards very comfortably, since they do not contradict the standards of European countries.
How are perfumes labeled?
Highly concentrated perfume products, that is, perfumes, are not always labeled with words "Parfum" ("perfume" in French) or "Perfume" (in English). The bottle or box may say "PARF" or simply "Extrait".
Separately, technical standards regulate the durability of perfumes (we are talking about the durability of the smell, of course). It may be different, however minimal persistence of perfume odor should not be less than 50 hours for toilet perfumes and 60 hours for so-called concentrated perfumes (although in practice we clearly detect the aroma for an average of six or more hours).
Eau de parfum
What is toilet perfume
Eau de toilette (or, as they are also called, eau de parfum or eau de parfum) is distinguished from concentrated perfumes fragrance content, which ranges from 10 to 20 percent with 90 percent alcohol, the volume fraction of which in the final product must be at least 75 percent.
How are toilet perfumes labeled?
Many, having paid close attention to the markings on their perfumes, may be surprised, as they learn that they are not using perfumes at all, namely eau de parfum. Markings may include the letters "EDP"; often written "Eaudeparfum" or "Parfumdetoilette". Possible inscription "Espritdeparfum". One way or another, the word "parfum" is present, which indicates that we are talking about perfume.
If we talk about the same standards adopted in relation to all types of perfume products, then longevity of toilet perfumes not much different from the durability of perfume, amounting to at least 50 hours. In practice, we clearly detect this aroma for 4 or more hours.
What is eau de toilette
Eau de toilette, being, in fact, even less concentrated perfume, includes from 4 to 10 percent aromatic composition at 85 percent alcohol. The volume fraction of ethyl alcohol cannot be lower than 75 percent.
How is eau de toilette labeled?
If you see the inscription on the bottle "EdT" or "Eaudetoilette", then there is toilet water in front of you (at least that's how it should be!). By our standards, such a scent should last for forty hours (the durability of eau de toilette), although in practice we are usually able to clearly detect its scent for about three hours.
What is cologne
According to our standards, cologne is a perfume product in which the content of fragrant substances is not less than one and a half percent at 70 percent alcohol strength. In reality, the extract content can reach up to five percent with a volume fraction of ethyl alcohol of at least 60 percent.
How is cologne labeled?
Cologne produced in European countries, as well as in the United States of America, is most often marked with the inscriptions " EdC" or " Eau de Cologne" . At the same time, you should not be confused by the fact that in American cologne the concentration of fragrant substances may be higher, which, according to our standards, makes this product suitable for the definition of “eau de toilette.”
In fact, the whole reason is the difference in the standards of individual countries. It turns out that if you purchased cologne from the USA, you can count on the fact that its aroma will be more persistent. By our standards, the durability of such a scent should last at least 24 hours, although we usually notice it clearly within an hour or two.
Long lasting perfume
By the way, about the durability of fragrances!
The durability of aromas in perfumery is a separate issue, which we will discuss separately. But at this stage it is worth noting that most of us is captured by stereotypes. In other words, we present what is real as the norm, although in reality there are strict standards regulating this indicator.
It should be understood that durability depends on many parameters. In the general case, if matching scents"last" significantly less than the periods of time specified in the standards, it is worth thinking about the quality of the purchased perfume.
Perfume family of fragrances
We have already mentioned Osmotheka above. This fragrance archive, created with the support of the French Perfumery Society, not only archives existing and recreates lost aromas. In the same 1990, French perfumers, led by Jean Kerleo, identified seven main so-called families of fragrances, each of which is divided into numerous subspecies.
Over time, the original list has undergone changes. Some perfumers believe that it is outdated and needs to be expanded twice or even two dozen main types of fragrances. However, the average person who intends to master the basics of choosing perfumes should start with these seven families of fragrances.
Before moving on, decide which of the following scents might interest you first. Keep in mind that most often certain types of perfumes and other perfumes combine several families of fragrances at once(for example, oriental and floral; or citrus, floral and woody). So, seven families of fragrances from the French Perfume Society:
Flower perfume
Floral scents
Classics of the genre - floral scents. The floral scent has become a classic thanks to widespread of this family of fragrances. And it owes its wide distribution to the wide range of floral scents themselves in nature.
As the name implies, the main components of such perfumes are flowers. Most Popular are pink tones, violet, jasmine, carnation, tulip, lily of the valley. No less popular are the aromas of lily, lilac, narcissus, tuberose, and hibiscus.
However, the diversity of floral perfume products is achieved not only by the variety of floral flora, but also by the presence of different notes in the smell of perfumes, which became the reason for perfumers to distinguish four floral subgroups of fragrances:
- Floral-fruity
- Floral-aldehydic
- Floral green
- Floral-oceanic
Flower and fruit compositions easy to distinguish from other aromas thanks to absolutely recognizable notes of fruit. The popularity of perfumes with notes of peach, watermelon, raspberries, strawberries and other fruits and berries remains consistently high among women and is increasing among men.
However, even their popularity cannot be compared with the popularity of such famous floral aldehyde perfume , like Chanel No. 5, which became the first perfume in its family in which the basis of the aroma was a substance derived from alcohol. Now the popularity of perfumes with synthetic aromas is somewhat lower, but also quite stable.
The so-called floral green scents . They are by definition fresh and light; cloying and suffocating notes are alien to them; These are real summer smells, in which you can discern the aroma of freshly cut grass, light notes of a flower meadow.
Finally, aquatic aromas (i.e. floral-oceanic ) gained enormous popularity immediately after its appearance at the end of the last century. Since then, this family of fragrances has remained popular among both women and the stronger sex.
Many people believe that floral scents are the prerogative of women. But this is far from true!
Given the wide range of floral aromas, such perfume products are worn representatives of both sexes. Although floral-fruity and floral-green compositions are indeed more often created for the female gender.
Moreover, despite the fact that such fragrances are more often recommended for young girls, some of them may also be suitable for older ladies. Floral-ocean chords originally created for both sexes, although it should be understood that there are many different notes of this aroma. Unisex fragrances are often found in this family.
Examples of floral perfumes and eau de parfum:
Insolence Eau de Parfum (Guerlain), Dior Addict 2 Eau Fraiche (Dior), L'eau par Kenzo pour Femme (Kenzo), Mon Guerlain Florale (Guerlain), Chanel No. 19 (Chanel) and others.
Examples of floral eau de toilette:
La Vie Est Belle L"Eau de Toilette Florale (Lancome), Stella Eau de Toilette Stella (McCartney), Flowerbomb Eau de Toilette (Viktor&Rolf), Yellow Diamond (Versace) and others.
Examples floral cologne :
Garden Rose Eau de Cologne (Aerin Lauder), Eau de Cologne L"Originale (Mont St Michel), Pretty Eau de Cologne (Elizabeth Arden) and others.
Citrus perfume
Citrus aromas
Citrus perfume aromas are no less popular among women than floral ones, although there are juicy and bright notes, which are suitable for both sexes. Calm and deep tones are not found so often here - usually these are very cheerful and cheerful morning and afternoon scents.
Notes of lemon, grapefruit, bergamot, orange, lime and other citrus fruits are often combined with floral scents. (especially in perfumes). Citrus colognes and eau de toilette, unlike perfumes, have gained great popularity among the male population.
Examples of citrus perfumes and eau de parfum:
Happy Eau de Parfume (Clinique), Parfum Diorissimo Extrait de Parfum (Christian Dior) and others.
Examples citrus toilet water :
Challenge Refresh Eau de Toilette (Lacoste), Book of Citruses Bergamotto Eau de Toilette (MONOTHEME) and others.
Examples of citrus cologne:
French Citrus Eau De Cologne (Laboratoires Cadentia), Citrus Musk (Pinaud Clubman) and others.
Oriental perfume
Oriental scents
Oriental scents are also called amber or oriental. As the name suggests, the composition of fragrances includes the so-called oriental themes; first of all, it is sandalwood, cinnamon, musk, amber, and various spices. Unlike light morning and daytime citrus and floral perfumes, oriental scents are considered winter and evening, that is, heavier.
Classic oriental fragrances are women's perfumes. However, there are also purely masculine oriental fragrances (especially lately). Oriental tones are usually viscous, warm and deep. Such perfumes often contain well-known aphrodisiacs. Combinations with fruity or other floral scents sometimes soften amber perfumes.
Examples of oriental perfumes and eau de parfum:
OUD Oriental Eau de Parfum (Versace), Suma Oriental (Une Nuit a Bali), Opium (YVES SAINT LAURENT), Mystery Oud (Daniel Josier) and others.
Examples of oriental eau de toilette:
Pour Homme Eau de Toilette (Lacoste), L'Ome Oriental Wood Eau De Toilette (Durance) and others.
Examples eastern cologne :
Oriental Eau De Cologne (Shomukh), Oriental Eau De Cologne (Siraj), Eau Jeune L"Orientale (Novaya Zarya) and others.
Types of perfumes
Chypre fragrances
Once you smell any representative of chypre aromas, it will be impossible to confuse it with anything else. The reason is classic composition of this perfume includes the aroma of musk, a citrus component (usually bergamot), forest aromas (mainly oak moss, pine and spruce needles), sandalwood, and other ingredients.
Many people are familiar with this perfume through the “Chypre” cologne, the prototype of which was the “Chypre” perfume created back in 1917 (actually, French pronunciation of the island of Cyprus). However, chypre, having somewhat lost its original meaning, becoming a common noun, has gained very wide popularity.
In other words, now you can more often find combinations of chypre with other families of perfumes (fruit, green, citrus). However, even in this combination, chypres can be “calculated” quite easily. by the characteristic aroma of the forest, pine grove, oak moss. Such combinations are often used to create women's chypres.
Examples of chypre perfumes and eau de parfum:
CHANCE Eau de Parfum (Chanel), Chypre de Paris (Guerlain), Coriandre Eau de Parfum (Jean Couturier), Chypre (Coty) and others.
Examples of chypre eau de toilette:
Gucci By Gucci, Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Toilette (Chanel Parfum), Creation Eau de Toilette (Ted Lapidus) and others.
Examples of chypre cologne:
Eau de Cologne 1920: Chypre (Jardin de France), Brut Eau de Cologne (Corday), Mitsouko Eau de Cologne (Guerlain) and others.
Wood perfume
Woody aromas
Having read the description of the previous family of fragrances (chypre), the attentive reader may wonder: what is the difference between a woody perfume and a chypre one, if the latter also clearly there are notes of forest? And he will be right, since the family of woody aromas has something in common with chypre ones.
In other words, here you can also feel the theme of forest smells in the aroma, but they are not so diverse, much more more strict and restrained. In addition, in woody scents you will not find such obvious notes of pine grove and oak moss; The main motives here are the aroma of sandalwood, cedar aroma, cistus, myrtle wood, patchouli.
To distinguish these two families, a theoretical description alone will clearly not be enough. But a visit to a perfume salon, where you will be given the opportunity to “try” two similar perfumes from these two different families, will help you learn to distinguish one from the other. However, to completely confuse you, you may be offered a fragrance from a joint series of chypre and woody fragrances...
Examples of wood perfumes and eau de parfum:
Magnolia Nobile Eau de Parfum (Acqua Di Parma), Santal Majuscule (Serge Lutens), Si (Giorgio Armani) and others.
Examples of woody eau de toilette:
Egoiste Eau de Toilette (Chanel), Tokyo by Kenzo Eau de Toilette, Fahrenheit Eau de Toilette (Dior), Givenchy pour Homme and others.
Examples of woody cologne:
Baldessarini Eau de Cologne (Hugo Boss), Dsquared2 He Wood Cologne and others.
Fougere aromas
Fougere aromas include perfumes with a specific enveloping effect. At the same time, no cloying is observed in such odors; rather, they attract with their nobility and elegant unobtrusiveness. The very name of the fragrances comes from the French “fougere”, which translates as “fern”.
In the family of fougere scents, you can hardly find perfume products that contain notes of the smell of fern (especially since it doesn’t smell like anything special!). Basic components of fougere aromas- these are notes of bergamot, lavender, various woody tones based on plant and synthetic flavors (for example, coumarin) and so on.
Examples of fougere perfumes and eau de parfum:
Jicky Eau de Parfum (Guerlain), Green Tea Eau de Parfum (Elizabeth Arden), Gypsy Water Eau de Parfum (Byredo Parfums) and others.
Examples of fougere eau de toilette:
Black Sun Sport Eau de Toilette (Salvador Dali), Red Delicious Men Eau de Toilette (DKNY), Philosykos Eau de Toilette (Diptyque) and others.
Examples of fougere cologne:
Eau de Cologne Fougère Wally, Fougère Etoile Eau de Cologne (Santaflor) and others.
Selection of perfumes
Skin fragrances
Skin (or leather) perfume aromas can be classified as non-standard, as evidenced by even the relative low prevalence similar aromatic products. However, like any product, skin scents also have their own small army of fans. After all, it’s not without reason that perfumers around the world have identified a special family of these fragrances.
Among perfumes with a skin scent, there are purely feminine, purely masculine and unisex perfumes. In its pure form, of course, it is unlikely to attract anyone leather perfume(even very expensive), therefore, when they talk about skin perfumes, they often mean the composition of aromas - a combination with marine, woody and chypre tones is usually used.
Examples of skin perfumes and eau de parfum:
Cuir Eau de Parfum (Molinard), Vanille Cuir Eau de Parfum (M. Micallef), Mahon Leather Eau de Parfum (FLORIS London) and others.
Examples cutaneous toilet water :
Russian Leather Eau de Toilette (Molton Brown), Black Leather Eau de Toilette (Clean) and others.
Examples of skin cologne:
Acqua di Parma Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée (Colonia), Our Legacy Eau De Cologne (Our Legacy) and others.
Perfume brands
Choosing perfume by brand
It's no secret that when buying products with a name, we overpay a considerable amount of money for the brand. Absolutely the same situation with perfumery products. But, if you are not embarrassed by the inconvenience of being “sponsored” by famous trading perfume houses, you can be almost one hundred percent sure of the quality of the product you are purchasing.
The most famous perfume brands
If you are confident in the authenticity of the perfume, eau de toilette or cologne we offer you, then feel free to pay attention to following brands primarily: Chanel, Christian Dior, Hugo Boss, Nina Ricci, Calvin Klein, Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent, Cartier,Lancome, Dolce & Gabbana, Jean Paul Gaultier,KarlLagerfeld
The best perfume
Of course, this list could be much wider. But first, master at least the above a dozen big names. This will be quite enough so that when you find yourself in some perfume store with the desire to spend a certain amount of money, you will not feel completely awkward from not knowing the hardware.
Almost every famous perfume manufacturer is mercilessly fighting for minds, or, more correctly, behind the customers' noses, releasing new fragrances with enviable frequency, investing incredible resources in their promotion. There is practically no way for the average person to keep track of all the trends. But this is not required!
Choose two or three “your” brands
If you settle on a couple of brands, whose collections of fragrances will suit you most. To do this, arrange an acquaintance with classic scents from these "perfumery monsters". You can ask to see analogues of so-called vintage products (that is, analogues of perfume aromas that are more than a quarter of a century old).
Does this mean that among less venerable companies you are unlikely to find a perfume with an aroma worthy of your attention? Of course not. However, in this case you will have to "shovel" more flavors, study reviews of lesser-known brands. Moreover, in this case, the risk that your favorite scent may disappear from the collection or its quality will be unstable increases.
Trail of perfume
Choosing perfume by aroma
At the beginning of our story, we compared perfume with clothes. Indeed, they say about fragrances that “they are worn.” However, another analogy for perfume products would be appropriate - with music or sounds. And it is necessary not for the sake of rhetoric, but for convenience, since they say about the same spirits that they “sound”, they are “listened to” and “heard”.
Thanks to this approach, the phrase “perfume composition” becomes more understandable, since perfume aroma is a complex thing, consisting of various components. And it does not demonstrate itself immediately, only gradually revealing the so-called consistent sound, that is, revealing itself over time.
Three main scent notes
Before you start “tasting” aromas, you should know the basic principles of the behavior of these very aromas. As is the case with many liquid alcohol products containing flavor, you can expect three, if you like, aroma phases: the initial notes of the aroma (they are also called top notes), middle notes (the heart of the aroma) and those very notorious trail notes.
It is recommended to go to try out new perfumes when your body is in a vigorous and fresh state. For most people, this time is morning. although this is an individual question. Keep in mind that trying a dozen or two scents at once is absolutely pointless, since you are unlikely to remember even a third of them.
Tasting three flavors is considered optimal. Five is the maximum, which not every beginner can afford. Smells are mixed, confused; the trail mixes with the initial notes; middle notes are perceived incorrectly. As a result, we purchase a perfume that we risk not liking immediately after the first “thoughtful” use.
First acquaintance with the scent
For initial acquaintance with a fragrance, they usually offer blotters - paper samples or testers, widely used in perfumery. If the fragrance has just been applied to the blotter, it makes sense to give a sample get some air(literally a couple of minutes), otherwise you will only feel the top notes.
Only after a while will you feel what you will have to wear for a couple of hours after applying the perfume to your body - heart of flavor. If you were given a sample that already contains a fragrance, then we are most likely talking about base (that is, base) notes.
The drydown of a perfume is what you will wear the longest. And if it gave you the most pleasant sensations, it makes sense try out a potential purchase on your skin. You may be wondering: does it make sense to try a perfume on your skin if you liked it on a blotter?
The answer is that it definitely makes sense (especially when it comes to expensive perfumes)! The fact is that it affects the character of the aroma a lot of different factors, including skin type and more. We will talk about these factors a little further when we touch on the durability of fragrances in more detail.